sixpenny, Stanmore

by lex on February 16, 2014

sixpenny

sixpenny

A fine dining restaurant in the ‘burbs that launched as degustation only. That is pretty much unheard of. But we have heard of the two men behind sixpenny – James Parry and Daniel Puskas.

James’ CV includes Icebergs, Billy Kwong, Bird Cow Fish, Oscillate Wildly (where he won the 2009 Josephine Pignolet Young Chef of the Year Award), Blue Hill at Stone Barns (New York), Noma (Copenhagen), Mugaritz (Spain), Manly Pavilion and Rockpool.

Daniel started his career at Tetsuya’s before moving on to Zuma (London), The Boathouse at Blackwattle Bay, Marque (where he won the 2006 Josephine Pignolet Young Chef of the Year Award), wd~50 (New York), Alinea (Chicago), Oscillate Wildly and Sepia.

Dining Room

Dining Room

It was at Sepia I first came across Daniel and learned of his restaurant which was to launch a few months later. The evening was a Crave SIFF event and included a number of chefs. Daniel’s duck dish was my favourite of the night and it was clear to me his new venture was something I needed to check out.

Two years later I finally made it. After too many comments of “we should go…” I decided to book in Sunday lunch for no reason other than it was two years overdue.

8 course menu – $135.00 per person / with matching wines – $220.00 per person

  • Kipfler Potato Chips
  • English Muffin, Green Tomato, Ricotta
  • Lemon Cucumbers with Rose Geranium
  • Charred Treviso Leaves with Cured Egg Yolk
  • Corn with Sea Urchin Butter
    (Equipo Navazos ‘I think’ Manzanilla, Sanlucar de Barrameda Spain)
  • Green Apple & Green Peach Salad, Sour Cream, Meyer Lemon
    (2011 Fukuchiyo Shuzo ‘Nabeshima’, Junmai Daiginjo, Kyushu, Japan
  • Crab, Silky Macadamia and Camomile
    (2010 Domaine Jean-Claude Bessin, Chardonnay, Chablis, Burgandy, France
  • Roasted Potatoes in Mustard with Lemon Basil and Wild Spinach
    (2011 La Violetta ‘Das Sakrileg’ Riesling, Great Southern, WA
  • Lightly Steamed Bass Groper, Watercress and Sweet Potato Leaves
    (2011 Shaya, Verdejo, Rueda, Spain)
  • Malted Veal, Cabbage, Fermented Anchovies
    (2011 Jauma ‘Danby’ Grenache/Shiraz, McLaren Vale, SA
  • Honey Meyer Lemon, Frozen Yogurt and Lemon Verbena
  • Vanilla Brined Pear, Toasted Milk, Chocolate
    (2012 Domaine les Enfants Sauvages Muscat de Rivesalte, France)
  • Roasted Pumpkin, Mead & White Rice Ice Cream
    (2010 Domaine Rotier ‘Renaissance’ Len de l’El, Gaillac Doux, France)
  • Cookie Jar

Kipfler Potato Chips.
Equipo Navazos ‘I think’ Manzanilla, Sanlucar de Barrameda Spain.

With the rain coming down and the wind whipping at our heels we made it into the warmth of the restaurant. As we had a look over the two menu options (small or large degustation) a plate of potato chips were presented for us to nibble on. Salt and vinegar kipfler potato chips to be precise. Despite my dislike of vinegar these golden crisps were delightfully moreish.

Kipfler Potato Chips

Kipfler Potato Chips

English Muffin, Green Tomato, Ricotta.
Equipo Navazos ‘I think’ Manzanilla, Sanlucar de Barrameda Spain.

With the menu settled upon out came a procession of bites. An absolute hit at our table the mini English muffins were perfect specimens, fluffy and light (no hockey pucks in sight). The classic combination of cheese and tomato was lifted to greater heights with this sophisticated little number of green tomato marmalade and creamy ricotta. It was so good it even managed to get Em to eat her vegies – and want more! Sensational.

English Muffin, Green Tomato, Ricotta

English Muffin, Green Tomato, Ricotta

Lemon Cucumbers with Rose Geranium.
Equipo Navazos ‘I think’ Manzanilla, Sanlucar de Barrameda Spain.

Grown by the boys at the ‘sixpenny patch’ in the Southern Highlands, the second snack of grilled lemon cucumbers had me swooning. Cucumbers are one of my favourite vegetables of all time. Here the wedges of lemon cucumber were lightly grilled and paired with a rose geranium cream.

Lemon Cucumbers with Rose Geranium

Lemon Cucumbers with Rose Geranium

Charred Treviso Leaves with Cured Egg Yolk.
Equipo Navazos ‘I think’ Manzanilla, Sanlucar de Barrameda Spain.

Continuing on with the charred vegetable theme lightly charred treviso leaves featured in the next tasty bite. Topped with a light sauce and a generous shaving of golden cured egg yolk. The bitter leaves becoming mellower with the charring, the rich yolks adding another dimension.

Charred Treviso Leaves with Cured Egg Yolk

Charred Treviso Leaves with Cured Egg Yolk

Corn with Sea Urchin Butter.
Equipo Navazos ‘I think’ Manzanilla, Sanlucar de Barrameda Spain.

Rounding out the snacks for the day were sunflower yellow corn kernels served in the husk of the corn. Not only was this some of the best corn I have ever eaten but it was doused in gloriously rich sea urchin butter which brought a level of complexity that had me wanting more.

Corn with Sea Urchin Butter

Corn with Sea Urchin Butter

House-baked Bread Roll.

Appetites whet we were ready for more. Before the bubbles went to our head a house-baked sourdough bread roll arrived. I can’t go past good quality bread and this was up there. Lovely and warm, smothered with butter it was devoured in no time at all.

House-baked Bread Roll

House-baked Bread Roll

Green Apple & Green Peach Salad, Sour Cream, Meyer Lemon.
2011 Fukuchiyo Shuzo ‘Nabeshima’, Junmai Daiginjo, Kyushu, Japan.

And then the big dishes began to arrive. First up was a savoury fruit salad of green apple and green peach beautifully arranged in a fish scale pattern. Crisp and fresh, the acidity of the fruit soothed with house made sour cream. A delicate and light dish matched nicely with a slightly sweet sake with a dry finish.

Green Apple & Green Peach Salad, Sour Cream, Meyer Lemon

Green Apple & Green Peach Salad, Sour Cream, Meyer Lemon

Crab, Silky Macadamia and Camomile.
2010 Domaine Jean-Claude Bessin, Chardonnay, Chablis, Burgandy, France.

Stunning. That was the first thought that entered my mind when the next dish was presented to us. See those little white curls? They’re macadamia curls. Yes really. The sweet crab meat partnered beautifully with the silky and creamy nut that is the macadamia. A beautiful dish executed really well. I didn’t want it to end.

Crab, Silky Macadamia and Camomile

Crab, Silky Macadamia and Camomile

Roasted Potatoes in Mustard with Lemon Basil and Wild Spinach.
2011 La Violetta ‘Das Sakrileg’ Riesling, Great Southern, WA.

Breaking up the seafood dishes was a vegetarian number of potatoes. Hiding beneath the bright green spinach and lemon basil leaves was the golden potato. Roasted and fluffy, a notoriously heavy vegetable lightened by the sharp whole grain mustard and lemony hints from the basil.

Roasted Potatoes in Mustard with Lemon Basil and Wild Spinach

Roasted Potatoes in Mustard with Lemon Basil and Wild Spinach

Lightly Steamed Bass Groper, Watercress and Sweet Potato Leaves.
2011 Shaya, Verdejo, Rueda, Spain.

It’s clear Daniel & James have a high regard for produce – using what is in season and using every part of the vegetable. Our next course saw sweet potato leaves fried to crisp heaven adding a level of crunch to the delicate, lightly steamed bass groper. A wonderfully cooked piece of fish that was treated with minimal fuss and allowed to shine through.

Lightly Steamed Bass Groper, Watercress and Sweet Potato Leaves

Lightly Steamed Bass Groper, Watercress and Sweet Potato Leaves

Pastrami Brined Pork Cheek, Garlic and Gem Lettuce (Complimentary).

Following the fish we received a little something extra from the kitchen which wasn’t a part of the tasting menu. A golden rectangle of pork. But not just any old pork, pastrami brined pork cheek. This produced tender meat with buttery, meltingly soft layer of fat. Sadly I found the skin to be rather chewy but to counter this misstep, the cider braised garlic was incredible, out of this world with flavour packed to the rafters. A dish with huge potential.

Pastrami Brined Pork Cheek, Garlic and Gem Lettuce

Pastrami Brined Pork Cheek, Garlic and Gem Lettuce

Malted Veal, Cabbage, Fermented Anchovies.
2011 Jauma ‘Danby’ Grenache/Shiraz, McLaren Vale, SA.

Em may have eaten the green tomato jam but there was no convincing her to eat the greens in this one. I on the other hand loved it. Who would have thought braised cabbage could be so addictive? Drizzled with a sauce of fermented anchovies and dusted with cabbage powder to form a beautiful balance of salty and buttery that simply paired so well with the veal. Ahh the veal. Dark and glossy on the outside, pink and succulent on the inside. A rich and wonderful flavour pairing.

Malted Veal, Cabbage, Fermented Anchovies

Malted Veal, Cabbage, Fermented Anchovies

Honey Meyer Lemon, Frozen Yogurt and Lemon Verbena.

Moving on from savouries the palette cleanser arrived as a little mound of frozen yoghurt snow blanketing honey meyer lemon curd and sprinkled with lemon verbena dust. Deliciously tart and refreshing.

Honey Meyer Lemon, Frozen Yogurt and Lemon Verbena

Honey Meyer Lemon, Frozen Yogurt and Lemon Verbena

Vanilla Brined Pear, Toasted Milk, Chocolate.
2012 Domaine les Enfants Sauvages Muscat de Rivesalte, France.

Next up was the first substantial dessert. A classic combination of pear, chocolate and vanilla taken to the next level. Here the pears were vanilla brined and taken to the perfect stage of poaching whereby the pear had bite, while being deliciously juicy and giving. Coupled with the toasted milk crumb, creamy vanilla ice cream and chocolate ganache (hiding underneath it all).

Vanilla Brined Pear, Toasted Milk, Chocolate

Vanilla Brined Pear, Toasted Milk, Chocolate

Roasted Pumpkin, Mead & White Rice Ice Cream.
2010 Domaine Rotier ‘Renaissance’ Len de l’El, Gaillac Doux, France.

And then we arrived at the final course, the last dessert. Of course it was Em’s day with corn and potato featuring, and not being one for sweets she was tickled pink to see one of her favourite vegetables star in one of the desserts. With the rain drizzling down outside this was the perfect dessert. Warm and buttery pumpkin, honey mead and a not too sweet, rather savoury, rice flavoured ice cream. A non-fussy yet absolutely exquisite dessert.

Roasted Pumpkin, Mead & White Rice Ice Cream

Roasted Pumpkin, Mead & White Rice Ice Cream

Candied Rhubarb.

But of course the meal wasn’t really over. Before we knew it out came a plate of rhubarb straps. Sticky, tart and sweet all at the same time these would be awesome snacks to nibble on at work.

Candied Rhubarb

Candied Rhubarb

Cookie Jar.

Having heard so much about sixpenny’s cookie jar I was so excited to see it come out. I may have been caught with my hand in it 😉 Yes I really wanted cookie jar action and yes it was brilliant. Though I was super keen for Monte Carlos and Kingstons we were treated to alfajores and amaretti.

Cookie Jar

Cookie Jar

Amaretti are an Italian macaroon and perfect with a coffee. Alfajores on the other hand are a South American classic of shortbread biscuits with a dulce de leche filling. They absolutely stole the show.

Alfajores

Alfajores

Double Espresso.

Washed down with a double espresso we had reached the end of the meal.

Double Espresso

Double Espresso

Our meal at sixpenny was an absolute treat. I’d heard so many good things and had such high expectations I wasn’t sure if they would be fulfilled. Conversely they were smashed out of the ballpark. Daniel, James and their team are producing some truly exciting dishes at an extremely high level. If you ask me it should be on everyone’s must-eat list.

sixpenny
83 Percival Road
Stanmore NSW 2048
(02) 9572 6666
sixpenny Website

Sixpenny on Urbanspoon

{ 4 comments… read them below or add one }

chocolatesuze August 26, 2014 at 10:33 pm

the veal looks amazing!
chocolatesuze recently posted..GoodTime Burgers, Bondi Junction [24]My Profile

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Lex September 24, 2014 at 12:33 pm

I’ve honestly never had anything like it. So good!

Reply

milkteaxx August 27, 2014 at 2:53 pm

the veal and potato chips look great!

Reply

Lex September 24, 2014 at 12:33 pm

It was all rather epic!

Reply

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